Before You Call
Short diagnostic guides for working out what your door is doing and what it will take to fix.
Why Your Garage Door Only Opens a Few Inches
Your door lifts four inches, strains, and stops. Nine times out of ten that is a broken torsion spring, and this post explains how to confirm it and what the other symptoms mean.
Confirm It in Ten Seconds
Stand inside the garage with the light on and look at the steel shaft running horizontally above the door opening. Wrapped around it is the torsion spring, or on wider doors a pair of them.
A healthy spring is a continuous tight coil. A failed one has an unmistakable gap, usually one to three inches, as though a slice was removed. That gap is the whole answer.
Some older doors do not have a shaft above the opening. Instead a long spring runs alongside each horizontal track. Those are extension springs, and when one fails it usually looks stretched, hangs oddly, or is lying in two pieces.
Why a Broken Spring Stops the Door Dead
People assume the opener lifts the door. It does not, and it never did.
A double garage door weighs somewhere between 150 and 250 pounds. The springs are wound to hold almost exactly that weight, which is why a properly balanced door can be lifted with one hand. The opener only overcomes the small remaining imbalance and controls the travel.
Take the spring out of that equation and the opener is asked to lift the entire door on its own. It cannot. Most units strain, move a few inches, hit their force limit, and stop. That is the safety system doing its job.
The Other Four Symptoms
The motor runs but nothing moves. A stripped drive gear. The plastic gear that drives the chain wears out long before the motor does. You will hear the unit running normally, sometimes with a grinding note.
The door closes then bounces straight back up. Photo eyes. The two sensors near the floor have to face each other, sit below six inches, and see a clear path. Nudged out of line, blocked, or corroded and they read an obstruction. Occasionally it is the close-force setting instead.
The door lifts crooked and jams. A lift cable has come off its drum or snapped. Stop using the door. Every further attempt loads the track sideways and risks bending it or twisting a panel, which turns a modest cable repair into a section replacement.
Nothing happens at all. Try the wall button. If the wall button works and the remote does not, it is a remote battery or the receiver. If neither works, check the outlet and any GFCI on the circuit before assuming the worst.
Getting the Car Out
Pull the red release cord on the ceiling rail, which disconnects the opener, then lift the door by hand from the centre.
If the spring is broken, be careful. There is nothing counterbalancing the weight now, so the door is as heavy as it actually is. If it will not lift with reasonable effort, stop. A door that gets away from someone comes down hard and fast.
What Not to Do
Do not try to replace a torsion spring yourself. A wound spring stores a large amount of energy and has to be unwound and rewound with proper winding bars. This is the one repair on a garage door with a genuine record of serious injuries, and the parts saving is not close to worth it.
Do not have one spring replaced when both are the same age. They have taken the same number of cycles, so the second is close behind, and an unbalanced door drags the opener on every cycle.
Salt Air, and Why Long Beach Doors Fail Early
A standard spring is rated near 10,000 cycles, roughly seven years at four openings a day. Nearer the water that number comes down. Salt in the marine layer corrodes the coil, and corrosion creates the stress points a spring eventually breaks at.
The same air is harder on cables, and cables corrode from the inside of the strand where you cannot inspect them. If your door is within a mile or two of the water and the springs are being replaced, have the cables looked at in the same visit. It is minutes of extra work while the tension is already off.
What to Say When You Call
Tell whoever answers: how far it lifts, whether the motor makes noise, whether it lifts level, and whether the wall button works. Those four answers usually identify the part before anyone drives out, which means the right spring or gear kit is on the van and you get a firm price instead of a range.
Call Acronymofficial at (562) 641-7078 and describe what the door is doing.
One Last Thing Worth Checking While You Wait
If the door is down and you are waiting on a visit, look at the two photo eye sensors near the floor on either side of the opening. Each has a small LED. On most units one sensor shows a steady light and the other shows a light that goes out when the beam is broken.
If either light is off entirely, or blinking steadily when nothing is in the way, the sensors are misaligned or one has lost power. It is a two-minute fix and it is worth mentioning on the phone, because it changes what the technician expects to find. It also rules out the cheapest possible cause before you pay anyone to look at the expensive ones.
While you are down there, glance along the bottom of the door for rust blistering along the seam, and at the rollers where they sit in the track. Dry, cracked, or wobbling rollers are the cheapest warning a door gives you, and replacing a set of rollers is far less than the repair that follows when a seized one drags the door out of square.